The way cairo does scaling is really really inconvenient, and one of the
things in cairo that is fundamentally mis-designed.
Cairo scaling always affects both coordinates and object sizes, and the
two can apparently never be split apart. Which is very much not what we
want: we want just coordinate scaling.
So we cannot use 'cairo_scale()' to scale our canvas, because that
screws up lines and text size too. And no, you cannot "fix" that by
de-scaling the line size etc - because line size is one-dimensional, so
you can't undo the (different) scaling in X/Y.
Sad. I realize that often you do want to scale object size with
coordinate transformation, but quite often you *don't* want to.
Yeah, we could do random context save/restore in odd places etc, but
that's just a sign of the bad design of cairo scaling.
Work around it by introducing our own graphics context with scaling,
which does it right. I don't like this, but it seems to be better than
the alternatives.